DEPARTMENT OF ETHNOLOGY  

Ethnology on this site:

Head of Department: Aija Jansone, Dr hist.
Tel: +371 67226857, email: Jansone.A@gmail.com
Research interests: history of textiles, dress and needlework
Ilze Boldāne, Mag. hist.
Tel: +371 67226857, +371 26593299, email: ilze.boldane@gmail.com
Research interests: ethnic stereotypes
Anete Karlsone, Dr hist.
Tel: +371 67226857, +371 29492652, email: anete.karlsone@gmail.com
Research interests: history of dress, textiles and weaving in Latvia

Also actively participating in the department's research activities are State Emeritus Scientists Dr habil. hist., Prof., Full Member of LAS Saulvedis Cimermanis and Dr habil. hist., Prof. Linda Dumpe.


Books on ethnology published by "Zinātne"


These books are on sale at the "Zinātne" bookshop in the Academy of Sciences building (Akadēmijas laukums 1, Riga) and in major bookstores in Latvia.



Jansone A. Heritage of Rucava’s Patterned Knitted Articles.– Riga, Zinātne, 2011- 200 p., il. 

Text in Latvian and English

In the early 21st century a significant amount of traditional knitted articles, which are witnesses of their time, are kept in many of the houses in Rucava and in the local collections of significant ethnographic material. 
The task of the research is to demonstrate the historical development of the making, adorning and use of gloves and socks knitted in Rucava, providing a small retrospective insight into the material of the late 19th century and outlining the development trends of knitted items at the start of the 21st century.
During the period of ethnographic expeditions of research between 2005-2008, the author of the research of Rucavas and Dunikas civil parish recorded 67 pairs of gloves, 85 – double gloves, 39 – mittens and 30 pairs of knitted socks and their sections (cuffs).  Of the collection referred to, 191 photographic images and 25 drawings of patterns have been put into the publication, which was until now unpublished material of Rucavas knitted items. These knitted items are in the ownership of the Rucavnieki themselves, but their descriptions and photographic images are stored in the Ethnographic material collection of the Latvian Institute of History of the University of Latvia.

CONTENTS

Introduction – 7 p.
Development of knitted article patterns – 11 p.
Museum collections – 27 p.
    Glove and sock collection of the National History Museum of Latvia – 27 p.
    Collection of Rihards Zariņš (1909-1911) in the Russian Museum of Ethnography – 31 p.
Collections of the scientific expeditions of ethnographers 2005-2008 – 37 p.
    Mittens and double gloves – 39 p.
        Glove shape – 39 p.
Colour of knitted articles – 45 p.
Patterns of mittens and double gloves – 49 p.
    Gloves – 57 p.
    Socks – 67 p.
    Present-giving traditions 77 p.
Conclusions – 83 p.

Abbreviations – 86 p.
References and notes – 87 p.

Annex/figures
Double gloves - 95 p.
    Mittens – 137 p.
    Gloves – 149 p.
    Socks – 179 p.




Jansone A. The role of the Auseklītis Folk Applied Art Studio in the cultural history of Carnikava County.- Riga, Zinatne, 2011- 94 p.

In Latvian with summary in English. 

The work is about the contribution of the weavers and needleworkers of the Carnikava County Folk Applied Art Studio Auseklītis to the cultural history of the county. In its 46 years of existence, the studio’s activities have reflected Latvian tradition, contemporary influences and pan-human values.
The history of the Auseklītis Studio goes back to 1965. Initially it was called the Applied Art Club , but in 1989 this club developed into the Auseklītis Folk Applied Art Studio, which has become well known in Latvia.
Right from the beginnings of the group up to the present day, practically all the directions of activity of the weavers and needleworkers of Carnikava were established
by the successive leaders of Auseklītis (Genija Drulle, Ārija Cekule and Zane Ulmane), based on their knowledge, experience and creative potential, but since Carnikava itself is located in the Vidzeme region, the works tend to emphasise the textile-making traditions and colour combinations characteristic of this particular cultural-historical region.
 
CONTENTS
Introduction – 7 p.
The development of Folk Applied Art in Latvia and Folk Applied Art Studio „Auseklītis”– 9 p.
History of the development of Folk Applied Art Studio „Auseklītis”.- 14 p.
Folk Applied Art Studio „Auseklītis” in the last 20 years.- 36 p.
Folk Applied Art Studio „Auseklītis” exhibition action.- 44 p.
Successful Folk Applied Art Studio „Auseklītis” creative works.- 79 p.
Conclusion. - 82 p.
Folk Applied Art Studio „Auseklītis” members in 2010/11 season.- 83 p.
Summary - 88 p.



Jansone A. Tautas tērpa krekli Vidzemē 19. gs. [19 Century Shirts of the Traditional Folk Costume in the Vidzeme Region]. - Rīga: Zinātne, 1999. - 143 lpp., il., 2 lp. kr. il.

In Latvian with summary in English. 
 




Jansone A. Dvieļu rotāšanas tradīcijas Latvijā. 19. gs. 2. puse – 20. gs. = Traditions of Adorning Towels in Latvia (2nd half of the 19th cent. – 20th cent.) - Rīga: Zinātne, 2001. - 131 lpp.. il.

Text in Latvian and English. 

The book deals with the history of decorative towel embroidery in Latvia (19th-20th cent.). It is illustrated with documental photos from different places in Latvia. A tradition of making and adorning decorative towels, as well as towel end trimming is discussed on the background of historical development. Attention is paid to the traditions of using decorative towels, still widely spread in the everyday life of Latvian people. The book includes also a supplemental sheet of 94 photos of towels from scientific expeditions of the ethnographers of the Institute of History of Latvia.

    
CONTENTS

Ievads.- 5. lpp.
Dvieļu darināšanas un lietošanas tradīcijas.- 7. lpp.
    Pūra dvieļi.-7. lpp.
    Bēru dvieļi.- 10. lpp.
Dvieļu darināšana.- 11. lpp.
Dvieļu galu apdare.- 18. lpp.
Dvieļu izšuvumu motīvi un kompozīcija.- 23. lpp.
    
Preface - 42 p.
Traditions of Making and Using Towels - 44 p.
    Dowry Towels – 44 p.
    Coffin Towels – 47 p.
The Process of Making Towels – 48 p.
Trimming Towels Ends – 50 p.
Motives and Compositions of Towels Embroideries – 54 p.
   Avoti un literatūras norādes. - 113. lpp.
   Sources and References - 113 p.
   Tekstā publicēto attēlu saraksti. - 117. lpp.
Captions of Figures Published in the Text – 119 p.
Attēlu saraksti pielikumā. - 121. lpp.
Captions of Photoes Published in Supplementary Sheets – 125 p.
      




Jansone A. Decorated home textiles in Latvia. Late 19th – 20th century. - Rīga: Zinātne, 2004. - 227 p., il.

Text in Latvian and English.

This book is intended as a history of embroidery and needlework in Latvia in the late 19th and 20th century. Chapter 1 of the study relates the process of learning needlework techniques during the course of two centuries. Discussed from various aspects is the making of pattern samplers and organised training of embroidery in Latvia. Chapter 2 deals with decorated home textiles – interior textiles (tablecloths, towels, rugs, wall hangings and curtains). Chapter 3 describes bedclothes (sheets, bedspreads, pillowcases and cushions), the course of development of these textiles and their diversity in Latvia.


CONTENTS
Introduction – 9 p.
I Chapter. Embroidery training in Latvia – 38 p.
    Making pattern samples – 38 p.
        Samples for white work – 39 p.
        Tule samples – 40 p.
        Samples for coloured motives – 40 p.
        Samples for filling stitches – 42 p.
        Designs drawn by hand – 42 p.
    Organised training of embroiderers – 43 p.
        Needlework shops – 43 p.
        Needlework literature – 45 p.
    Special schools – 47 p.
    Contemporary development in Latvia folk applied art – 51 p.
II Chapter. Interior textiles – 97 p.
    Tablecloths – 97 p.
        White tablecloths – 98 p.
        Richelieu tablecloths – 99 p.
        Mats of commodes – 100 p.
        Crochet tablecloths – 100 p.
        Knit tablecloths – 100 p.
        Tablecloths sewn on a frame – 101 p.
        Coloured decorated tablecloths – 101 p.
        Coloured decorated mats – 101 p.
    Towels – 131 p.
        Trimming of towel ends and decoration of towels – 132 p.
        Motifs and composition of towel embroidery – 132 p.
    Rugs – 145 p.
    Wall hangings – 164 p.
    Curtains – 178 p.
        Living room curtains – 178 p.
        Door curtains – 179 p.
        Kitchen curtains – 179 p.
III Chapter. Bedclothes – 198 p.
    Bed-sheets – 199 p.
    Bedspreads – 201 p.
    Pillows and cushion – 222 p.
Conclusions – 227 p.




Jansone A. Glove and sock knitting tradition in Varkava. (2nd half of the 20th century- early 21st century). - Rīga: Zinātne, 2008 - 128 p., il.

Text in Latvian and English.

In the 20th – 21st centuries, of the Latvian traditional applied arts, knitting is the most widely produced genre of handicraft. To a great extent this is due to a relatively straightforward technique, readily available material and the suitability of knitted items for our climatic conditions.
The material recorded in ethnographic collections in the 21st century mainly shows the latest cultural cross-sections of knit-work, i.e. pieces of work from the end of the 20th century and today. In Varkava, the tradition of “distributing the dowry” at weddings still exists; in one house a large dowry of 40 pairs of gloves was recorded, to be shared out to the groom’s relatives at the wedding. This entire dowry is published in this edition. The tradition of knitting patterned socks in Varkava is also noteworthy. The edition will analyse gloves and socks according to their use, materials utilised, techniques used and the composition of ornamental patterns and colours.
  
  

CONTENTS

Introduction – 5 p.
Knitting in Vārkava – 12 p.
References – 43 p.
Dowry Gloves – 49 p.
Mittens – 71 p.
Mitten Series – 99 p.
Gloves – 105 p.
Socks – 111 p.


   © 2011  Institute of Latvian History        Authors of the web site